How to draft a coat lining
Since we enter the season of coats and lined jackets, I thought it would be useful to do a tutorial on how to draft a made-to-measure pattern for a coat lining. Before thinking of how to bag your coat...
View ArticleHow to draw a custom shawl collar
If you read me regularly enough, you’ve probably noticed: the shawl collar is one of my favorites. Feminine, versatile, wrapping, it is ideal for coats. I give you here, step by step, the key to draw...
View ArticleHow to draw the pattern for a raglan sleeve
A few weeks ago I was finishing my first hoodie with raglan sleeves that I hope be able to show you soon. At the same time a reader asked me how to transform a basic sleeve into a raglan one. I took...
View ArticleDrafting the trousers pattern (1/2)
Finding pants that perfectly fits our shapes is not an easy task. There are many morphologies and women and this is why, among ready-to-wear collections, there are more and more stretchy jeans and...
View ArticleDrafting the trousers pattern (2/2)
Once you have finished the most difficult part which was shown in a previous post, you can proceed to the next step: add the waist darts and the ease values. But before getting into darts, it might be...
View ArticleAdding ease to the bodice shell
If you have already completed the basic pattern of the bodice, you’ve probably realized that this pattern can not be used as such but you need to test it on your body and add ease to be able to move...
View ArticleHow to draw a round collar
I had the idea for this tutorial when drawing the model “Miss Baker”. The round collar or Peter Pan collar is one of the easiest to trace, nevertheless, by reading all of my pattern-making books, I...
View ArticleThe pattern of a kimono sleeve
One of my readers asked me to write a tutorial on the kimono sleeve. I tried it once, I found the pattern making method rather simple but the result was so disappointed that I completely put that idea...
View ArticleHow to draw the blouse pattern
When reviewing my pattern-making tutorials, I was surprised that I had not found the blouse yet. This essential element of the female wardrobe. I am talking about the fluid large shirt made of silk or...
View ArticleThe pattern of a shirt sleeve
After drawing your made-to-measure shirt bust pattern, you can proceed to sleeve pattern. Unlike conventional sleeve, the sleeve head is flatter as it does not include fullness, To build the sleeve...
View ArticleHow to draw made to measure cuffs
Continuing the custom shirt series, the third chapter is dedicated to the construction of cuff patterns. If only I could decide, shirts would never have cuffs. Their precise construction and assembly...
View ArticleHow to draw a made to measure shirt collar
Your blouse waited enough to be finished. The bust, sleeves and cuffs should not present any more secrets for you. It is the time to deal with the masterpiece: the collar. As this is a fairly...
View ArticleMake a custom pattern with “mode pour lol”
As I was saying in my previous post, I have recently discovered “mode pour LOL” videos. I found it very visual and accessible and I wanted to try this method of pattern-making for the bust. I was...
View ArticleThe pattern of the pivoted kimono sleeve
After the basic sleeve, the shirt sleeve, the kimono sleeve and the raglan sleeve, I will show you today the pattern of a sleeve usually found in casual wear like hoodies. Depending on the shape,...
View ArticleThe pattern of the fitted sleeve
The fitted sleeve is this very tight sleeve that fits the arm and get tighter on the wrist. To allow easy movement of the arm, the pattern provides a dart to the elbow. The pattern is quite easy to...
View ArticleThe pattern of the leg of mutton sleeve
Leg of mutton, so elegantly put … In these times of cold and rain, this culinary reference could warm our hearts … This sleeve is puffy in the shoulder and quite tight to the rest of the arm. Its...
View ArticleThe basic pattern of «sportswear» trousers
While reading the ESMOD book “Becoming a pattern drafter”, I have learned of two types of basic pants patterns. This discovery deserves to be shared here so you can have the right basis for every model...
View ArticleThe pattern of the back-seamed sleeve
In the series of made to measure patterns, I would like to introduce a type of sleeve that is often used for coats or trench coats and it is not very complicated to achieve. This is the back-seamed...
View ArticleThe jean pattern
We all see that ready-to-wear market is filled with jeans … We find jeans in all the forms and all the colors, for a price ranging from a few tens of euros to a few hundred, for a elusive difference if...
View ArticleThe pattern of the pocket
If you’re making pants without thinking of pockets, it’s like drawing a face without putting on a smile. You lack this detail that helps the hands not knowing what to do or a silhouette seeking to be...
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